🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.